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Ye who know the Lone Trail fain would follow it,
Though it lead to glory or the darkness of the pit.
Ye who take the Lone Trail, bid your love goodbye;
The Lone Trail, the Lone Trail follow till you die.
...
Bid goodbye to sweetheart, bid goodbye to friend;
The Lone Trail, the Lone Trail follow to the end.
Tarry not, and fear not, chosen of the true;
Lover of the Lone Trail, the Lone Trail waits for you.
– Robert Service

Alaska and Canada’s Summits above 13,000 feet

– Sorted by Elevation

Notes
Rank Elev
feet
Prom
feet
Summit Name Proximate Parent
Line Parent (if diff)
Iso
miles
Quadrangle Rg St G J
1 20,320 20,172 Denali - South Peak   TR Yanamax, China
Volcan Chimborazo, Ecuador
4,621.23
 
Mount McKinley A3 AR AK 3  
2 19,540 17,215 Logan, Mount - Main Peak   TR Denali - South Peak AK 386.3 McArthur Peak 115 C/9 SE YK 1  
  19,488 919 Logan, Mount - West Peak Logan, Mount - Main Peak 1.3 McArthur Peak 115 C/9 SE YK 1  
  19,470 1,320 Denali - North Peak   TR Denali - South Peak 2.0 Mount McKinley A3 AR AK    
  19,357 656 Logan, Mount - East Peak Logan, Mount - Main Peak 1.4 McArthur Peak 115 C/9 SE YK    
  18,832 262 Logan, Mount - Houston’s Peak Logan, Mount - Main Peak 2.1 McArthur Peak 115 C/9 SE YK    
  18,517 1,129 Logan, Mount - Prospector’s Peak Logan, Mount - Main Peak 4.3 King Peak 115 C/10 SE YK    
  18,438 1,050 Logan, Mount - AINA Peak Logan, Mount - Main Peak 5.2 King Peak 115 C/10 SE YK    
  18,307 262 Logan, Mount - Russell Peak Logan, Mount - Main Peak 3.3 McArthur Peak 115 C/9 SE YK    
  18,176 788 Logan, Mount - North Peak Logan, Mount - Main Peak 4.7 McArthur Peak 115 C/9 SE YK    
  18,044 656 Logan, Mount - Northeast Peak Logan, Mount - Main Peak 4.2 McArthur Peak 115 C/9 SE YK    
3 18,008 11,184 Saint Elias, Mount - Main Peak
TR
Logan, Mount - Main Peak 26.0 Mount Saint Elias B8 USA
Newton Glacier
115 C/7 & C/2 Canada
SE AK
YK
1  
  17,750 500 Saint Elias, Mount
- NW Shoulder
Saint Elias, Mount -
Main Peak
1.2 Mount Saint Elias B8 USA
Newton Glacier
115 C/7 & C/2 Canada
SE YK    
  17,651 525 Logan, Mount - Queen Peak Logan, Mount - Main Peak 6.9 King Peak 115 C/10 SE YK    
4 17,400 7,250 Foraker, Mount   TR Denali - South Peak 14.4 Talkeetna D3 AR AK 1  
  17,338 262 Logan, Mount - Far East Peak Logan, Mount - Main Peak 2.3 McArthur Peak 115 C/9 SE YK    
  17,257 787 Logan, Mount - Northwest Peak Logan, Mount - Main Peak 6.9 King Peak 115 C/10 SE YK    
5 17,147 9,995 Lucania, Mount - Main Peak   TR Logan, Mount - Main Peak 31.6 Mount Lucania 115 F/1 SE YK 1  
6 16,971 3,520 King Peak   TR Logan, Mount - Main Peak 8.5 King Peak 115 C/10 SE YK 1  
  16,812 262 “South Foraker” Foraker, Mount 1.0 Talkeetna D3 AR AK    
7 16,644 2,394 Steele, Mount   TR Lucania, Mount - Main Peak 7.2 Mount Lucania 115 F/1 SE YK 1  
  16,552 802 Lucania, Mount - Central Peak Lucania, Mount - Main Peak 1.5 Kluane Lake 1:250k SE YK    
8 16,550 6,900 Bona, Mount   TR Lucania, Mount, Canada 49.7 McCarthy B2 SE AK 1  
  16,550 300 “Southwest Foraker” Foraker, Mount 1.3 Talkeetna D3 AR AK    
9 16,390 10,540 Blackburn, Mount   TR Bona, Mount 60.4 McCarthy C7 WR AK 1  
  16,286 536 “Kennedy Peak” Blackburn, Mount 1.5 McCarthy C7 WR AK 1  
  16,263 < 263 Lucania, Mount - Northeast Peak Lucania, Mount - Main Peak 2.6 Kluane Lake 1:250k SE YK    
10 16,237 7,687 Sanford, Mount   TR Blackburn, Mount 40.1 Gulkana A1 WR AK 1 1
  16,207 262 Logan, Mount - West Queen Peak Logan, Mount - Main Peak 8.3 King Peak 115 C/10 SE YK    
  16,007 757 Lucania, Mount - Southwest Peak
aka “Atlantic Peak”
Lucania, Mount - Main Peak 2.0 Kluane Lake 1:250k SE YK    
11 15,979 9,089 Vancouver, Mount -
Good Neighbor Peak
Logan, Mount - Main Peak 28.9 Mount Saint Elias B5 USA
Mount Vancouver
115 B/5 & B/4 Canada
SE AK
YK
   
12 15,885 3,635 Wood, Mount Steele, Mount 11.8 Kluane Lake 1:250k SE YK    
  15,741 < 741 “Northwest Wood” Wood, Mount 1.0 Kluane Lake 1:250k SE YK    
  15,660 410 “West Bona” Bona, Mount 1.3 McCarthy B3 SE AK    
  15,638 1,188 Churchill, Mount Bona, Mount 2.6 McCarthy B2 SE AK    
13 15,557 2,307 Slaggard, Mount Wood, Mount 4.7 Kluane Lake 1:250k SE YK    
  15,387 1,637 Macauley, Mount Wood, Mount 1.6 Kluane Lake 1:250k SE YK    
14 15,300 13,050 Fairweather, Mount Vancouver, Mount -
Good Neighbor Peak
124.4 Mount Fairweather D5 SE AK
BC
1  
  15,250 500 “Southwest Slaggard 1” Slaggard, Mount 1.7 Kluane Lake 1:250k SE YK    
  15,050 200 “Northwest Foraker” Foraker, Mount 1.7 Talkeetna D3 AR AK    
15 14,950 8,700 Hubbard, Mount Vancouver, Mount -
Good Neighbor Peak
21.3 Mount Saint Elias B3 SE AK
YK
   
  14,916 166 “Southeast Churchill” Bona, Mount 2.6 McCarthy B2 SE AK    
16 14,831 5,181 Bear, Mount Bona, Mount 21.3 McCarthy B1 SE AK    
17 14,787 4,537 Walsh, Mount Steele, Mount 11.8 Kluane Lake 1:250k SE YK    
  14,660 110 “North Churchill” Bona, Mount 3.9 McCarthy B2 SE AK    
18 14,573 4,623 Hunter, Mount - North Peak   TR Denali - South Peak 8.6 Talkeetna D3 AR AK 1  
  14,501 751 “Southeast Macauley” Slaggard, Mount 2.7 Kluane Lake 1:250k SE YK    
  14,500 1,950 Alverstone, Mount Hubbard, Mount 2.3 Mount Saint Elias B3 SE AK
YK
   
19 14,470 3,220 University Peak Bona, Mount 4.2 McCarthy B3 SE AK    
  14,450 1,500 Aello Peak Bona, Mount 5.4 McCarthy B3 SE AK    
20 14,370 3,150 McArthur Peak Logan, Mount - Main Peak 7.0 McArthur Peak 115 C/9 SE YK    
  14,337 1,087 “South Slaggard” Slaggard, Mount 2.5 Kluane Lake 1:250k SE YK    
  14,260 400 “Snave, The” Blackburn, Mount 3.2 McCarthy C7 WR AK 2  
21 14,163 5,613 Wrangell, Mount Sanford, Mount 14.8 Gulkana A1 WR AK    
  14,134 814 “East McArthur” McArthur Peak 1.1 McArthur Peak 115 C/9 SE YK    
  14,108 858 “Southeast Steele” Steele, Mount 3.6 Kluane Lake 1:250k SE YK    
  14,075 825 “Southwest Slaggard 3” Slaggard, Mount 3.5 Kluane Lake 1:250k SE YK    
22 14,070 5,081 Augusta, Mount Saint Elias, Mount 16.2 Mount Saint Elias B7 USA
Corwin Cliffs
115 C/8 & C/1 Canada
SE AK
YK
   
  14,013 563 “Perch Peak” Wrangell, Mount 1.5 Gulkana A1 WR AK 1  
  13,966 1,116 Hunter, Mount - South Peak Hunter, Mount - North Peak 2.2 Talkeetna D3 AR AK    
  13,950 1,000 “East Aello Peak” Bona, Mount 4.5 McCarthy B3 SE AK    
  13,950 1,000 “The Claw” Bona, Mount 4.8 McCarthy B3 SE AK    
  13,894 1,644 Kennedy, Mount Hubbard, Mount 3.5 Mount Saint Elias 1:250k US SE YK    
23 13,860 2,210 West Atna Peak Blackburn, Mount 6.5 McCarthy C6 WR AK    
24 13,845 4,395 Regal Mtn West Atna Peak 12.2 McCarthy C5 WR AK    
  13,845 525 “East King” King Peak 1.9 King Peak 115 C/10 SE YK    
25 13,832 11,507 Hayes, Mount Sanford, Mount 126.8 Mount Hayes C6 AR AK    
  13,820 70 “South Fairweather” Fairweather, Mount 1.0 Mount Fairweather D5 SE AK    
26 13,818 2,568 Avalanche Peak Slaggard, Mount 7.5 Kluane Lake 1:250k SE YK    
  13,811 1,410 Newton, Mount Saint Elias, Mount 3.2 Newton Glacier
115 C/7 & C/2
SE YK    
27 13,760 7,710 Cook, Mount Vancouver, Mount -
Good Neighbor Peak
14.5 Mount Saint Elias A6 SE AK
YK
   
  13,750 1,500 “Chitna Peak” Slaggard, Mount 4.2 Kluane Lake 1:250k SE YK    
  13,750 500 “Southwest Slaggard 2” Slaggard, Mount 2.8 Kluane Lake 1:250k SE YK    
  13,750 500 “Southwest Slaggard 4” Slaggard, Mount 4.3 Kluane Lake 1:250k SE YK    
28 13,750 2,000 Strickland, Mount Avalanche Peak 3.0 Kluane Lake 1:250k SE YK    
  13,650 400 East Atna Peak West Atna Peak 0.6 McCarthy C6 WR AK    
  13,605 455 “West Fairweather” Fairweather, Mount 1.3 Mount Fairweather D5 SE AK
BC
   
  13,560 1,310 Quincy Adams, Mount Fairweather, Mount 2.7 Mount Fairweather D5 SE AK
BC
   
  13,550 1,500 Ocypete Peak Bona, Mount 7.1 McCarthy B3 SE AK    
  13,535 185 “South Quincy Adams” Quincy Adams, Mount 0.4 Mount Fairweather D5 SE AK    
  13,450 600 Hunter, Mount - Middle Peak Hunter, Mount - North Peak 1.5 Talkeetna D3 AR AK    
  13,441 1,302 “Catenary Peak” McArthur Peak 2.9 McArthur Peak 115 C/9 SE YK    
  13,440 1,490 East Kahiltna Peak   TR Denali - South Peak 3.7 Talkeetna D3 AR AK 1  
29 13,421 4,771 Jarvis, Mount Wrangell, Mount 13.0 Nabesna A6 WR AK    
  13,350 1,300 Celeno Peak Bona, Mount 8.0 McCarthy B3 SE AK    
  13,350 600 “The Fin” Foraker, Mount 4.1 Talkeetna D4 AR AK    
30 13,345 5,895 Natazhat, Mount Bear, Mount 16.5 McCarthy C1 SE AK    
  13,315 1,665 “East Bona” Bona, Mount 3.3 McCarthy B2 SE AK    
  13,305 800 “South Hayes” Hayes, Mount 1.1 Mount Hayes C6 AR AK    
  13,280 930 “Parka Peak” West Atna Peak 2.2 McCarthy C6 WR AK    
31 13,250 2,000 Craig, Mount Avalanche Peak 4.5 Kluane Lake 1:250k SE YK    
  13,250 1,000 Snowfield Peak Avalanche Peak 2.0 Kluane Lake 1:250k SE YK    
32 13,220 3,270 Silverthrone, Mount Denali - South Peak 10.8 Mount McKinley A2 AR AK    
  13,182 256 Logan, Mount - Southeast Peak Logan, Mount - Main Peak 2.9 McArthur Peak 115 C/9 SE YK    
33 13,177 > 2,000 Waddington, Mount Rainier, Mount WA 349.1 Mount Waddington 92 N6 BCC BC    
34 13,176 10,751 Marcus Baker, Mount Wrangell, Mount 128.3 Anchorage B2/B3 CG AK    
  13,025 775 “North Jarvis” Jarvis, Mount 3.1 Nabesna A6 WR AK    
35 13,020 3,970 Moffit, Mount Hayes, Mount 10.4 Mount Hayes C5 AR AK    
  13,009 959 Zannett, Mount Wrangell, Mount 3.8 Gulkana A1 WR AK    

Notes by Gerry Roach

  1. Our Alaska and Canada climbs above 13,000feet
    Gerry Roach’s totals: 20 ascents; 12/35 hard ranked; 17/99 overall
    Jennifer Roach’s totals: 1 ascent; 1/35 hard ranked; 1/99 overall
    Gerry and Jennifer’s combined total as of 5/29/11: 21 ascents

  2. There are 99 summits on this list, of which 35 are hard ranked.

  3. For this list, I require that a hard ranked summit have at least 2,000 feet of prominence.

  4. I compiled this list from a variety of maps and other sources. There are variances due to differing contour intervals between the US and Canadian maps, and also because some maps are larger scale and older then others.

  5. Maps listed are Canadian unless specifically denoted USA.

  6. Prominence numbers for Steele, Wood, Slaggard. Maccauley, and Walsh are preliminary.

  7. Denali South Peak - First ascent June 7, 1913 by Hudson Stuck, Harry Karstens, Walter Harper, and Robert G. Tatum via the Muldrow Glacier.

  8. Denali North peak - First ascent April 3, 1910 by the Sourdoughs Billy Taylor and Peter Anderson via the Muldrow Glacier.

  9. Saint Elias - First ascent 1897 by the Duke of the Abruzzi, Vittorio Sella, and party via the North (Abruzzi) Ridge.

  10. Foraker - First ascent August 6, 1934 by Charles S. Houston, T. Graham Brown, and Chychele Waterson via the Northwest Ridge.

  11. South Foraker - First ascent August 9, 1934 by Charles S. Houston, T. Graham Brown, and Chychele Waterson via the Northwest Ridge.

  12. Bona - First ascent in 1930 by Alan Carpe, Andy Taylor, and Terris Moore. Many large-scale maps show Bona at 16,421 feet, but the McCarthy B2 Quad clearly shows the 16,500-foot contour, hence the given altitude of 16,550 feet.

  13. Blackburn has two summits. The western summit is the mountain’s highpoint, a fact that was not understood until the 1960s when the then new USGS maps came out. The first ascent of the west peak, and hence Mount Blackburn, was done on May 30, 1958 by Bruce Gilbert, Dick Wahlstrom, Hans Gmoser, Adolf Bitterlich, and Leon Blumer via the Northwest Ridge. This intrepid team made the first ascent of Blackburn, but did not even know it at the time! Blumer’s article in the 1959 American Alpine Journal is titled “Mount Blackburn - Second Ascent.”

  14. “Kennedy Peak” is “East Blackburn.” First ascent in 1912 by Dora Keen and George Handy via the Kennicot Glacier and East Face. This heady exploit was ahead of its time. Dora Keen, driven by a deep desire for the climb, solicited miners from the nearby Kennicot Copper Mine, and forged a route up the heavily crevassed East Face to the East Peak, but did not traverse over to the West Peak. Dora went on to write a famous article for the Saturday Evening Post titled, “First up Mount Blackburn.” In 1912, Dora and George thought they were on Blackburn’s highest point, a misconception that was not understood until the 1960s, when the then new USGS maps came out showing the West Peak to be higher. With global warming, Dora’s route is not practical today. The second ascent of Blackburn’s East Peak was made in 1977 by Gerry Roach and party via the Southeast Ridge. Gerry’s party in 1977 reached the East Peak first, traversed to the West Peak, and descended the Northwest Ridge to complete the first traverse of Blackburn. The elusive East Peak had gone 65 years without a human footstep!

  15. Sanford - First ascent in 1938 by Bradford Washburn and Terris Moore via the Sheep Glacier.

  16. Mount Vancouver has three summits connected by a linear, north-south ridge, and the question of which summit is the high point of Mount Vancouver is an interesting one. The middle summit is lower than both the north and south summits. The south summit is the one that is the border summit between the United States and Canada, and this summit is known as “Good Neighbor Peak.” The wisdom of the ages is that the north peak is the highest, and this is based on the old 1:250,000 Canadian map that shows all three summits. The 1:50,000 Canadian map is based on the 1:250,000 and does not add any new information, but it does have a smaller (40M) contour interval. Based on this, the best Canadian map, the elevations of the three summits are: north 15,787 feet, middle 15,551feet, and south (Good Neighbor Peak) 15,682 feet.

    So what’s the mystery? The USGS 1:63,360 Saint Elias B5 Quadrangle clearly shows the south summit (Good Neighbor Peak) to be 15,979 feet, which is an astonishing difference of 292 feet. Sadly, the USGS map does not show the middle or north summits at all. Clearly, either the Canadian or US map, or possibly both, are in error. It is likely that the newer USGS map is more accurate than the old Canadian map, which derives from a much larger scale. Thus the higher elevation for the south summit (Good Neighbor Peak) appears to be the best number. This opens the intriguing possibility that the north peak, always believed to be higher, is actually over 16,000 feet. Indeed, adding 292 feet to the north peak would give it an elevation of 16,079 feet. I believe that the entire massif is higher than indicated by the Canadian maps, however I cannot invent a topography, and must use the best maps available for making this list. Accordingly, I assume that the elevations of the three summits are north 15,787 feet, middle 15,551 feet, and south (Good Neighbor Peak) 15,979 feet, and that the south summit (Good Neighbor Peak) is the high point of Mount Vancouver.

  17. Fairweather - First ascent in 1931 by Allan Carpe and Terris Moore.

  18. Hubbard - First ascent in 1951.

  19. Bear - First ascent in 1951.

  20. Hunter - First ascent July 4, 1954 by Fred Beckey, Heinrich Harrer, and Henry Mehbohm via the West Ridge.

  21. Alverstone - First ascent in 1951.

  22. University - First ascent June 19 and 20 1955 by Keith Hart, Leon Blumer, Sheldon Brooks, Tim Kelley, Norman Sanders, and Gibson Reynolds via the Hawkins Glacier and North Ridge.

  23. Aello, Ocypete, and Celeno Peaks are part of the Twaharpies Group, and these names became official in 1967. Aello Peak has three summits of nearly equal height. The Harpies were creatures from ancient Greek mythology, whose name literally means “snatchers.” They were the personification of whirlwinds and hurricanes. With head and trunk of a winged woman, claws and tail of a bird, ravenous and filthy, these repulsive beings served as the ministers of divine vengeance, and defiled all they touched.

  24. “The Snave” - Climbed by Gerry Roach and party in 1977 as part of the first traverse of Blackburn. Inspiration for the name came during a long storm. Snave is Evans spelled backwards, and the Snave’s elevation of 14,260 feet is nearly equal to the elevation of Colorado’s Mount Evans. Other than this similarity, the difference between the Snave and Mount Evans is striking.

  25. Wrangell - First ascent in 1908 by R. Dunne and W. Sowle.

  26. Augusta - First ascent July 4 1952 by Peter Schoening, Vic Josendal, Dick McGowan, Bill Niendorff, Bob Yeasting, Verl Rogers, Gibson Reynolds, and Tom Morris via the lower Northwest Spur and upper North Ridge.

  27. “Perch Peak” is “West Wrangell.” Unaware of the Harpies, Gerry often perched peacefully on this summit in 1964 when he spent the summer on top of Mount Wrangell.

  28. Regal - First ascent August 3 1964 by Yasuichi Kitamura, Ryoichi Hasegawa, Masao Tanaka, and Shinichi Naito.

  29. Hayes - First ascent in 1941.

  30. Cook - First ascent August 1 1953 by Dick McGowan, Franz Mohling, Tom Miller, and Tim Kelly via the North Face.

  31. Moffit - First ascent in 1941.
  32. Logan Main Peak - First ascent 1925 by A.H. MacCarthy, H.F. Lambart, A. Carpe, W.W. Foster, N. Read, A. Taylor via the King Trench Route.

  33. Saint Elias - First ascent 1897 by the Duke of the Abruzzi, Vittorio Sella, and party via the North (Abruzzi) Ridge.

  34. Lucania - First Ascent July 9 1937 by Bradford Washburn and Robert Bates.
    Second ascent July 8, 1967 by Gerry Roach, Gary Lukis, Jerry Halpern, and Mike Humphries.

  35. Lucania - Northeast Peak - First ascent July 16 1967 by Robbie Babb and Bob Kyrlach.

  36. Mount Vancouver has three summits connected by a linear, north-south ridge, and the question of which summit is the high point of Mount Vancouver is an interesting one. The middle summit is lower than both the north and south summits. The south summit is the one that is the border summit between the United States and Canada, and this summit is known as “Good Neighbor Peak.” The wisdom of the ages is that the north peak is the highest, and this is based on the old 1:250k Canadian map that shows all three summits. The 1:50,000 Canadian map is based on the 1:250k and does not add any new information, but it does have a smaller (40M) contour interval. Based on this, the best Canadian map, the elevations of the three summits are: north 15,787 feet, middle 15,551feet, and south (Good Neighbor Peak) 15,682 feet.

    So what’s the mystery? The USGS 1:63,360 Saint Elias B5 Quadrangle clearly shows the south summit (Good Neighbor Peak) to be 15,979 feet, which is an astonishing difference of 292 feet. Sadly, the USGS map does not show the middle or north summits at all. Clearly, either the Canadian or US map, or possibly both, are in error. It is likely that the newer USGS map is more accurate than the old Canadian map, which derives from a much larger scale. Thus the higher elevation for the south summit (Good Neighbor Peak) appears to be the best number. This opens the intriguing possibility that the north peak, always believed to be higher, is actually over 16,000 feet. Indeed, adding 292 feet to the north peak would give it an elevation of 16,079 feet. I believe that the entire massif is higher than indicated by the Canadian maps, however I cannot invent a topography, and must use the best maps available for making this list. Accordingly, I assume that the elevations of the three summits are north 15,787 feet, middle 15,551 feet, and south (Good Neighbor Peak) 15,979 feet, and that the south summit (Good Neighbor Peak) is the high point of Mount Vancouver.

  37. Fairweather - First ascent in 1931 by Allan Carpe and Terris Moore

  38. Hubbard - First ascent in 1951

  39. Alverstone - First ascent in 1951

  40. Augusta - First ascent July 4 1952 by Peter Schoening, Vic Josendal, Dick McGowan, Bill Niendorff, Bob Yeasting, Verl Rogers, Gibson Reynolds, and Tom Morris via the lower Northwest Spur and upper North Ridge.

  41. Cook - First ascent August 1 1953 by Dick McGowan, Franz Mohling, Tom Miller, and Tim Kelly via the North Face.

  42. Waddington - First ascent in 1936 by Fritz Wiessner and William House.
Copyright © 2001-2018 by Gerry Roach. All Rights Reserved.
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